The use of laser or light sources to remove unwanted hair is based on the theory of selective photothermolysis.4 This concept allows the user to transfer light energy into heat and destroy the hair follicle with minimal to no effect on surrounding tissue. The target of the laser or light source is endogenous melanin present in hair follicles. The absorption spectrum for melanin is broad, and ranges from ultraviolet (400 nm) to infrared light (1200 nm). In theory, any of these wavelengths could be used to destroy the target melanin, however, melanin absorption is greatest with shorter wavelengths, and decreases as longer wavelengths are utilized. In order to selectively target melanin within the hair follicle and avoid epidermal injury, the laser or light source will ideally be able to reach deeper into the skin to the level of the bulge area of the hair follicle, as well as the dermal papilla or bulb. The bulge portion of the outer root sheath of the hair follicle is thought to contain epithelial stem cells responsible for regenerating follicles in the anagen stage. The bulb is the lowermost portion of the hair follicle where the matrix cells exist and proliferate. Pigment in the hair shaft is produced by melanocytes interspersed among the matrix cells. Targeting both the bulge and bulb will theoretically provide permanent hair reduction. The bulb is approximately 4 mm from the skin surface, and the bulge is approximately one-third the distance from the surface of the skin to the bulb. Longer wavelengths such as the 1064 nm neodymium:yttriumaluminum-garnet (Nd:YAG) laser will reach approximately 5 mm below the skin surface, which roughly corresponds to the level of the hair follicle bulb. In addition to selecting the appropriate wavelength, other parameters may be adjusted to selectively target deeper hair follicles while minimizing damage to the epidermis. According to the principle of selective photothermolysis, selective thermal destruction will occur if sufficient energy is delivered at a wavelength well absorbed by the target within a time period less than or equal to the thermal relaxation time of the target. The thermal relaxation time is the time it takes for the target to cool to half of its baseline temperature by transferring the heat to surrounding structures. Tanned or darkly pigmented skin has greater melanin content and more
melanin distributed throughout the epidermis and stratum corneum than white, nontanned skin. Tanning from ultraviolet exposure also causes epidermal thickening. Thus, thermal relaxation time of the absorbing epidermal layer can vary from 100 μs for white nontanned skin to as much as 25 ms for a thick epidermis in the case of tanned or darkly pigmented skin. The pulse duration is the amount of time laser energy is applied to the surface, and can range from nanoseconds to milliseconds. It is an important determinant of efficiency and morbidity associated with hair removal procedures. The pulse duration used in laser hair removal is approximately equal to the thermal relaxation time of the hair follicle. If the pulse duration exceeds the thermal relaxation time of the basal cell layer (approximately 0.1 ms) or the entire epidermis (approximately 10 ms), these structures will cool as they are heated during the laser pulse. Larger targets such as hair follicles with longer thermal relaxation times (approximately 40 ms), can be selectively injured more than these smaller targets even though they contain the same target melanin. Longer pulse durations allow the hair follicles whose diameter is larger than the epidermal thickness and which contain heavy concentrations of melanin, to accumulate heat. Simultaneously, the epidermis with its shorter thermal relaxation time than the hair follicles, is essentially allowed to cool down. For any given wavelength, increasing pulse duration allows the delivery of higher fluences in dark skin types.10 Fluence is the total energy delivered per unit area and is measured in joules per centimeter squared (J/cm2). Higher fluences have been shown to be more effective at achieveing permanent hair reduction. Therefore, the goal is to deliver the highest fluence possible without causing epidermal injury. Fluence is the main parameter causing adverse effects by overheating the surrounding tissue of the hair follicle or of the pigmented epidermis, and must be adjusted cautiously. The biology of the hair follicle also influences the effectiveness of the laser. Human hair grows in a cyclical pattern. The growth phase, or anagen phase, is followed by a degradative phase, or catagen phase, and then by a resting period when no growth occurs, the telogen phase.6 It is thought that for the laser treatment to be most effective, the hair must be in the anagen growth phase. This may be due to the higher concentration of melanin within the hair follicle at this stage. Approximately 80–85% of hairs are in the anagen phase at any one time depending on location, age, and gender; the remainder are in catagen (2%), or telogen (10–15%).9 Table 6.1 shows the percentage of hair follicles in anagen according to location, as well as hair density and follicle depth which are also site dependent, and important considerations in laser hair removal. Four clinical responses may occur after light exposure.11 Heat induced destruction of the hair shaft without damage to the germinative area may cause the hair shaft to fall out and then regrow at the next scheduled anagen cycle. Partial injury to the germinative zone of the hair follicle may result in trichoregulatory dysfunction, telogen-shock response, prolonged telogen dropout, and eventual regrowth of normal hair once the anagen phase begins again, or may lead to the development of thinner, finer hairs with variable hypopigmentation. Ideally after therapeutic light exposure, total germinative zone injury results in long term hair loss. Laser hair removal is generally considered safe; however, as with any procedure, there are risks involved. Side effects may include erythema, edema, vesiculation, hypopigmentation, hyperpigmentation, growth of thinner or paler hair, induction of hair growth, and scar formation. These risks are much higher in individuals with darker skin types. New methods and technologies are under development that will aid in the safe treatment of darker skin types. Before treating an individual with type V or VI skin, a strong understanding of the principles of laser technology, as well as a consideration of available cooling devices, will be useful. The following discussion will assist the provider in the use of laser therapy for hair removal in types V and VI skin.